Certified public accountants and enrolled agents

September 4, 2008 – 2:45 pm

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This is a continuation of previous post on choosing a tax preparer.

These are the pros to consider when you’re looking for help with a complicated tax return, year-round tax-planning advice, and someone who might be able to help you need to do battle with IRS.  In fact, a CPA or EA can become one of your trusted allies throughout your life.  This pro may turn into the sounding board you need when deciding things such as: Should I get a home equity loan?  Does it make sense to borrow from my 401(k) savings plan?  Would I be better off in a tax-free municipal bond mutual fund or a fund that invests in U.S. Treasury securities?

Certified public accountants who specialize in taxes (not all 400,000 CPAs do) and enrolled agents are similar in many respects.  Both have received rigorous training.  A CPA must pass a state accountancy exam and then take continuing education classes to keep up.  An EA has either worked at the IRS and earned a special license or passed a stiff two-day IRS test.  Both can represent you in front of a storefront preparer, because of their training.  Figure on spending $200 to $1,000:  enrolled agents often charge a little less than tax partners at big-city accounting firms.  Many charge by the hour -$75 and up.  If that’s how yours get paid, do whatever you can to bring your accountant or enrolled agent organized records.  Otherwise you’ll be throwing money away paying the adviser to sort through your receipts and determine which ones are important.

As noted earlier, it’s a good idea to ask friends or business associates for the names of advisers they use.  Since there are only about 30,000 enrolled agents in the country, however, you may not know of anyone using one.  To get names of enrolled agents in your area, call the National Association of Enrolled Agents at 800-424-4339 or write to the group at 200 Orchard Ridge Dr., Suite 302, Gaithersburg, Md. 20878. Read the rest of this entry »


Choosing a Tax Preparer

September 2, 2008 – 2:45 pm

Face it:  filling out your tax return is no fun.  First there are the hours of sorting through your records, statements, and receipts to see what you need for your return.  Then there is the time it takes to actually sit down and complete the tricky forms, made more complicated by the 1997 tax laws.  Once you’re done, you may very well think to yourself, Could I be paying less somehow? A top tax preparer can save you not only some time and aggravation, but probably some taxes, too.  That’s why paid preparers complete two-thirds of the nation’s 1040 long forms.  In the next topic you’ll learn how to best use a tax adviser and tax software.

Which type of preparer to hire and how much you’ll pay depend on the complexity of your tax return and your financial life.  You have three basic options: storefront preparers, certified public accountants (CPAs), and enrolled agents.  You needn’t hire a tax lawyer just to fill out your return or to get sensible tax-planning advice.  A tax lawyer is worth a call, however, once you arrive at the intersection of taxes and the legal system –for instance, if you are about to get a divorce or buy or sell a business.

Try not to look for a tax pro in the heart of tax season, during March or April.  By that time most of the better preparers are already hooked.  You’ll also have a tough time getting one to sit with you for a free consultation.  The best time to seek out a tax adviser who will provide tax-planning advice is in June or July; many take well-deserved vacations in May.  If you want someone only to fill out your returns, start your search in January, once you have the necessary data for last year’s finances.The skinny on your tax adviser choices: Read the rest of this entry »


Getting Help You Can Trust

September 1, 2008 – 2:09 pm

Fortunately, managing your finances isn’t something you need to do alone.  In fact, you will probably be more likely to reach your financial goals if you hire some crackerjack advisers: tax preparer, insurance agents, one or more lawyers, perhaps a stockbroker, financial planner, or even a money manager.  A sharp real estate agent can help you get the best price when selling your home and direct you to suitable shelter if you’re buying (more about finding and using one in Smart Strategies for Buying a House, Condo, or Co-op).  Electronic helpers –in the form of computer software and on-line services-can guide you, too.

You don’t have to be rich to hire advisers, either.  The key is finding the right pro for your needs and your wallet.  For instance, although you could pay a CPA $1,000 or so to fill out your federal and state tax returns, you might do just as well with a storefront preparer charging between $50 and $100.  A helpful rule: To find an appropriate, honest adviser, start by asking your friends or business associates whom they use and begin interviewing them.  What follows is kind of annotated Yellow Pages to help you turn up the financial advisers you need.

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14 Totally Ridiculous Insurance You Probably Don’t Need

August 31, 2008 – 2:53 pm

You may well be thinking, Gee –I sure need a lot more insurance that I have now! Well, maybe, you do. And maybe you don’t. According to the National Insurance Consumer Organization (NICO), a nonprofit group, fully 10% of the $180 billion or so that Americans spend on insurance is unnecessary.

Remember, the purpose of insurance is to protect your family against financial catastrophe. So you should insure only against losses you can’t absorb without serious pain –not against small losses that you can meet by tapping your savings. Nor should you buy policies that insure you against just one risk, such as dying in an airplane crash or contracting one specific illness. Such narrow policies are usually very expensive for what you get back in benefits.

Among the policies you should spurn –or dump if you already have them:

1. Life insurance for your kids. It’s amazing how many people take out policies for young children’s lives considering how little reason there is to do it. You should insure a person’s life only in order to protect his or her dependents against the loss of that person’s income stream. So unless your kid is supporting you, save your money.

2. Dread-disease insurance. Policies that pay only if you get cancer, for example, cost a whopping $250 or so a year –about the same as your cost for an employer-sponsored health policy that covers virtually every malady. Read the rest of this entry »


The Ways To Lower Your Life Insurance Costs

August 28, 2008 – 2:42 pm

Follow these suggestions to help save money on your life insurance premiums:

1. Get healthier. Quitting smoking can cut your life premium in half; losing excess weight can save almost as much.

2. Call a price comparison-shopping service or use one on-line. Several companies exist that will report the lowest rate available to you from a variety of different insurers.  Price quotes are free; you can usually buy the policy you want directly from the company offering the price quote.  Three such firms: Quotesmith (800-556-9393); it scans more than 150 insurers; SelectQuote (800-343-1985; 16 insurers; and TermQuote (800-444-8376; 75 insurers.  On-line services can also help you buy life insurance wisely, by advising you on how much coverage you need, the most appropriate type of policy, and the least expensive one.  To get a second opinion on the right coverage, try QuickQuote Insurance Agency’s Term Life Estimator (www.quickquote.com).  If you want tips on chossing the right type of policy and finding the least expensive choices for term insurance, check out InstantQuote (www.instantquote.com), QuickQuote, and Quotesmith (www.quotesmith.com).

3. Make sure to get some quotes from low-load insurance companies. Ten low-load insurers such as Ameritas and USAA, both of whom sell be telephone, charge sales fees that amount to just 10% to 20% of your first-year premium and perhaps 2% of subsequent premiums.  If you work with a fee-only financial planner, that pro can locate low-load policies for you, too.  If you don’t know how much insurance you want, a planner or an insurance consultant can help you figure out the right amount.  You’ll pay a flat fee of perhaps $200 to $500 or a rate of something like $100 to $150 an hour.

I wanna thank One Cave Man for sponsoring Carnival of Personal Finance and including this post in his list. If you do now know yet, Carnival of Personal Finance list a lot of nice personal finance articles around the net in a weekly basis. I’m a fun of such and I make it a habit to read it to enrich my knowledge.

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Types of Cash-Value Policies

August 26, 2008 – 2:37 pm

There are many different types of cash-value policies.  Among the most common are whole life, universal life, and variable life policies.  Here’s how they differ:

• A whole life policy, the traditional form of cash-value insurance, invests mostly in bonds and earns a fixed, modest rate of return.

Universal life policies let you adjust your premium and death benefit every year to suit your changing circumstances.  Parts of your premiums are invested in short-term securities similar to those in money-market mutual funds, paying money-market rates of interest.  Premiums are flexible:  you may even be able to skip adding to the cash value if money is tight-though you’ll probably be forced to pay higher charges later on.

Variable life invests your cash value in your choice of stock, bond, or money-market funds.  Returns fluctuate according to the markets and the fund manager’s investing skill.  Variable life policies generally deduct sales charges and other annual expenses that can cut their cash-value returns in half over the first 10 years you own them. Read the rest of this entry »


Deciding the Best Life Insurance Policy

August 24, 2008 – 2:19 pm

To decide which kind of life insurance policy is best for you, the first thing to understand is the difference between the two major types: term insurance and cash-value insurance.

Term insurance is pure insurance: your premium payments go toward the guaranteed death benefit for your survivors.  Well, almost exclusively.  A portion also pays the agent’s commission and the insurance company’s overhead and profit.  The term policy is good –in insurance terms “stays in force” –as long as you keep paying the premiums.  When you stop paying, you’re no longer insured.

Cash-value insurance, on the other hand, is a hybrid.  It’s life insurance combined with a savings fund.  Part of the premium you pay goes toward the death benefit, the commission, and so forth, just as with term insurance.  But a large piece of your premium goes into a tax-deferred investment fund.  The balance you build up in this investment fund is known as the policy’s cash value.  The cash value has a guaranteed interest rate, typically 4% to 5%; but the policy is likely to earn more than that for you.  Depending on the policy, you can eventually borrow against your cash value or even withdraw it.  Insurance agents sometimes like to call cash-value coverage “permanent insurance”.

So which kind of insurance is best: term of cash value?  For most people, term is the clear winner.  If you’re young or your money is tight, opting for a cash-value policy is downright foolish.  That’s because for the same death benefit, term insurance is far less expensive, especially in the early years.  And the commissions are far less steep (commissions on cash-value policies generally run five to 10 times higher than those on term policies.)  If you’re 35 and want to buy $500,000 worth of life insurance, your annual term premiums will run about $850 to $1,500.  A cash-value policy might cost you three times as much in that first year. Read the rest of this entry »


Figuring Out How Much Life Insurance You Need

August 22, 2008 – 2:15 pm

This worksheet can help you estimate the size of the minimum death benefit you need.

Add up the following:

1.  Your family’s annual living expenses for the number of years you want coverage (remember that these will rise with inflation)

2. Any extras that are important to you, such as the inflation-adjusted cost to: send your kids to college; pay off your mortgage; pay your funeral expenses (about $8,000 today, including cemetery plot); pay estate taxes or leave your children an inheritance

Then subtract the following (all for the total number of years you want insurance coverage):
1.  Your spouse’s estimated annual after-tax income

2. Estimated income on your investments

3. Social Security income (call 800-772-1213 for an estimate)

4. Pension income (ask your employee benefits department for an estimate)

Voila!  The approximate total death benefit you need.  You may have some of this covered already through a policy provided by your employer at work.  You can trim the amount by cutting back on certain goals (for example, maybe you don’t want to leave each of your kids a $100,000 inheritance after all.)  Still the basic amount of coverage a family of four needs can easily reach into the millions.

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Buying Life Insurance

August 21, 2008 – 2:09 pm

Amazing but true:  buying life insurance is one of the most important moves you can make to solidify your personal finances, yet it is also one of the most complicated.  It’s extremely difficult to compare life insurance policies.  On top of that, life insurance has its own jargon that is enough to make anyone head for the aspirin bottle.  It doesn’t help, of course, that buying life insurance means coming to terms with your own mortality.  Great.

Nevertheless, if you have dependents but your assets wouldn’t provide for them adequately after you die, you need life insurance.  By contrast, if you’re single and have no dependents, you probably don’t need to buy life insurance since no one is relying on your financial support.  A life insurance agent may argue that you should buy a life insurance policy to cover the cost of burial when you die.  But you should have enough in savings for this expense. Read the rest of this entry »


Buying Umbrella Liability Insurance

August 20, 2008 – 2:02 pm

If you own a car or a home, of course, your homeowners and auto policies provide some liability coverage –typically $100,000 to $300,000 for your homeowners policy and about $50,000 for your auto policy.  (Renters insurance policies provide some liability coverage, too.)  But if you can afford it, you ought to buy additional liability coverage –known as umbrella liability insurance –from a homeowners or auto insurance agent.  After all if, say, you or a member of your household cripples a bigwig executive by plowing into him on a ski slope, you could be the target of a massive lawsuit that far exceeds those limits.  Or if your teenager throws a party in your basement while you’re away and a friend breaks a leg on the stairs, you could be held responsible and your liability could be enormous.

An umbrella liability policy covers many claims that come because you or members of your household have damaged others out of negligence –or libeled, slandered, or defamed them –in excess of the limits on your other policies.  Read the rest of this entry »